We will visit the historic towns along the Nakasendo on the first and second days of our journey.
What is the Nakasendo?
The Nakasendo (中山道) is one of the five main routes used during the Edo period (1603–1868) to connect Edo (Tokyo)and Kyoto. It is often referred to as the “Central Mountain Route” because it passes through the mountainous regions of central Japan. The route was used by travelers, merchants, and officials, and it passed through 69 post towns where people could rest and resupply. Today, parts of the Nakasendo remain intact, and many visitors walk the well-preserved sections to experience the historical atmosphere and stunning natural landscapes of Japan.
Where is Kiso Valley
The Kiso Valley is a scenic mountainous region in Nagano and Gifu Prefectures, known for its well-preserved post towns along the historic Nakasendo route, which connected Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto during the Edo period. Surrounded by dense forests and dramatic landscapes, the valley offers a glimpse into Japan’s past, with towns like Narai, Tsumago, and Magome maintaining their traditional Edo-era charm.
Kiso Kaido Through Ukiyo-e
Through ukiyo-e, you can see the “Sixty-Nine Stations of the Kiso Kaido“, depicting scenes from the Edo period when travelers used this historic route. These woodblock prints provide a glimpse into what life was like along the highway during that time.
The Nakasendo and Kiso Kaido are often mentioned together, as the Kiso Kaido forms a major portion of the Nakasendo. The Kiso Kaido refers specifically to the stretch of the Nakasendo that passes through the Kiso Valley, an area known for its well-preserved post towns, dense forests, and dramatic landscapes, offering travelers a scenic and historically rich journey.
For reference, in this series, Narai is station 35, Tsumago is 43, and Magome is 44.
Day 1: Narai & Kiso-Hirasawa
NARAI
On the first day, we will explore Narai, a beautifully preserved post town located along the ancient Nakasendo trail. Narai was once a thriving stopover on the route connecting Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo), and it remains one of the most well-preserved towns along the Nakasendo. Walking through Narai feels like stepping back in time, with its traditional wooden houses, narrow alleys, and old merchant shops. We’ll have the chance to admire the town’s charming atmosphere and learn about its history as a center for travelers and traders during Japan’s Edo period.
We might stop by Kiso-Hirasawa, one stop before Narai, depending on the weather and what’s open that day.
KISO-HIRASAWA
This village has been crafting lacquerware for over 400 years. Around the station, you’ll find many beautiful lacquerware shops, so I thought it might be fun to explore them.
This is just a possibility, but if you’re interested, please check out this site to learn more about the town and its lacquerware.
Day 2: Walking from Magome to Tsumago
On the second day, we’ll walk the scenic section of the Nakasendo trail, from Magome to Tsumago, which takes about 3 to 4 hours. This portion of the Nakasendo is famous for its beautiful natural surroundings, including lush forests, picturesque mountains, and traditional thatched-roof homes. The walk is relatively easy but offers plenty of opportunities to pause and enjoy the peaceful, timeless beauty of the area. Both Magome and Tsumago have preserved their historic charm, with wooden inns and stores that date back centuries. Walking this section of the Nakasendo offers a truly immersive experience of Japan’s rural landscape and its historical heritage.
Our accommodation
Fuki No Mori ( 2 nights)
Traditional Ryokan with Onsen (Natural Hot Spring)
For the first two nights, we will be staying at a traditional Japanese inn called a Ryokan, located in the beautiful Kiso hot spring area. This ryokan features an onsen (hot spring bath) with natural water. There will be both indoor and outdoor baths available. While the baths for men and women are separated, they are otherwise public.
A stay at a ryokan includes a special local dinner and breakfast, so we will meet at the hotel restaurant for both meals, offering a truly authentic experience of Japanese cuisine.
- Onsen (Hot Springs) Rules – Shower before entering the communal bath, and note that tattoos may not be allowed in some places. Also, be sure to remove your slippers and place them in the designated shoe shelves before stepping into the changing area. More details: Onsen Etiquette
- Ryokan (Traditional Inn) Rules – Staying in a ryokan is a unique experience with specific customs. Read this guide to understand proper etiquette: Ryokan Etiquette
